Rock Climbing in the Costa Blanca - Guadalest (near Benidorm)

Guadalest Guide

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The rocky citadel of Guadalest has always been known for the bouldering available there, but recently the extensive walls have been developed and now the area is well worth a visit with a selection of routes across the grades, on a variety of walls. For climbers operating in the orange spot grade range - 5 to 6a+ - there is plenty to go at including some exceptional 2 and 3 pitch routes. These offer a good oportunity for less expereinced climbers to try their hand at multi-pitch routes before venturing onto the much bigger undertakings on places like the Penon and Puig Campana.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are around 120 middle grade bolted routes on the Guadalest crags and boulders. The boulders slipped into their present postion about 350 years ago after a huge earthquake. You will notice the stal formations on the rocks lie almost horizontally, making for some unusual holds particularly on the steep routes.

All climbs are well bolted, there are no real run out leads here. All routes have lower-off's in situ and the rouites on the boulers are easily set up for top roping.

Access: Park at the lower car park in Guadalest (see maps) and simply walk over a shallow gully to the obvious huge boulders. There do not seem to be any access problems. At night the slab sector is floodlit - so no excuses for finishing early!

The steeper wall would also be ideal for a few hours bouldering.

 


 

 

SAMPLE ROUTES - Steep Sector

The steep, slightly overhanging side of this enormous boulder offers short (about 10 Metres) but exciting routes. In particular Brosseta de Penya which has some great horizontal stalactite holds. It is also ideal for a few hours bouldering. Although it faces North it is posible to climb here all year around as it is very sheltered, and it dries very quickly. Easy to set up for top roping

1) ? Is this the shortest route in the Costa Blanca?~
2 ) Turismo Rural 6a+
3) Glopet de Mel
4) M'han Llevat Mosquetons 6b
5) Arros amb Costra 5+
6) La Cango del Caro 6a
7) Brosseta de Penya 6a+
8) Temporal de Llevant 6a+
9) Aitana 6a+
10)?

Slab Sector

A complete contrast, but still on a huge boulder and smaller holds. Easy to set up for top roping. Foodlit at night so no excuses for sneeking of to the bar!

1) La Panxa S'enganxa 6a+   takes the overlap direct
2) L'hedra 5+
3) Ai mare quina castanya 6a+
4) Retovato Glutamato 6a
5) Respeta L'entorn 5+

On the other side of the boulder you will find:

6) La Placa Ataka 5

There are three more longer bolt routes on the lower prow - not checked but probably 6b or harder

Guadalest Boulders - Topo produced by www.abdet.com

 

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